How to Safely Light a Pilot Light on a Gas Fireplace

Check for gas odors and clear the room before you touch anything

Safety comes before anything else when working around gas appliances. Before you open any access panel or click an igniter, pause and use your nose. Natural gas and propane companies add a chemical called mercaptan to their fuel, which creates an unmistakable smell similar to rotten eggs or boiled cabbage. Because propane is heavier than air, it tends to sink and pool along the floor, while natural gas rises toward the ceiling. Lean down and sniff right at the carpet or hearth level, then check the air at chest height.

• If you smell a strong rotten egg odor: Stop right away. Do not turn light switches on or off, do not unplug anything, and do not use a cell phone inside the room. Any tiny electrical arc can ignite pooled gas. Get every person and pet out of the house immediately, leave the front door open behind you to help vent the space, and call your local gas utility company or fire department from outside.
• If you smell a faint gas odor after a failed lighting attempt: Step away and wait at least five full minutes. It is completely normal for a tiny puff of unburned gas to escape while you hold down the pilot valve. Giving the room five quiet minutes allows that stray fuel to safely disperse up the chimney or out through the wall vent.
• If you have an open chimney damper: Make sure the metal flap inside the flue is securely opened before you light anything. While understanding how to close a fireplace damper helps you stop cold drafts when the hearth sits idle for weeks, running any gas flame with a shut damper forces toxic carbon monoxide right into your living room.

Locate your lower control panel and identify the three key controls

Most gas fireplace controls stay hidden out of sight to preserve the clean look of the hearth. Look along the bottom edge of your fireplace, directly underneath the sealed glass door or decorative screen. You will usually find a metal louvered grille, a decorative faceplate, or a hinged metal panel. On many models, this lower panel swings downward on bottom hinges like a glove box door. On other units, the panel lifts straight up and pulls away with gentle magnetic catches.

Once you open that lower door, shine a flashlight inside to spot three essential components:

The first part is the shutoff valve, which is the gas line handle that opens or stops the fuel from entering the unit from your home supply pipes. This handle looks like a small lever attached to a copper or flexible steel pipe. When the handle sits parallel with the pipe, the valve is open and gas can flow. If the handle sits perpendicular, forming a right-angle cross against the pipe, the fuel is completely shut off.

The second part is the control knob. This is a black or grey plastic dial with three positions stamped into its surface: Off, Pilot, and On. This knob controls an internal mechanical valve. Pressing this knob inward manually overrides the internal safety gate, allowing a small trickle of fuel to reach the pilot burner nozzle.

The third part is the piezo igniter, which is a push-button sparker that works just like the red clicking button on a backyard gas grill. Every time you push it firmly inward, an internal spring-loaded hammer strikes a quartz crystal, sending an electric spark across an electrode right beside the burner hood. Some models combine this sparker directly into the control knob so it clicks automatically when pushed, while others place it as a separate round button next to the dial.

Together, these parts feed and light your standing pilot, which is the small constant flame that lights the main fire whenever you flip your wall switch or turn on the thermostat.

Follow these exact steps to ignite the standing pilot flame

Lighting a standing pilot is straightforward once you know the exact sequence. Take your time, keep your face back from the glass, and follow these steps in order:

1. Open the main shutoff valve: Check the gas line handle located inside the access cavity or on the floor nearby. Turn the handle so it runs completely parallel to the gas pipe. If it was turned across the pipe, no gas can reach the controls.
2. Turn the control knob to Off: Rotate the dial clockwise until the word "Off" points directly at the indicator mark on the valve body. If you recently attempted to light the flame and failed, let the unit sit untouched in this Off position for a full five minutes so any lingering gas clears out.
3. Align the knob to the Pilot setting: Push the knob inward slightly and turn it counter-clockwise until the word "Pilot" aligns cleanly with the indicator mark or stamped notch on the valve frame.
4. Press and hold the knob down firmly: Push the dial straight inward with your thumb. You should feel it travel roughly a quarter-inch into the valve body. You may hear a soft, quiet hissing sound as gas travels to the pilot hood. If your fireplace has been turned off for several months, keep holding the knob down for 30 to 45 seconds before trying to strike a spark. This bleeds trapped air out of the empty gas line until fresh fuel reaches the nozzle.
5. Click the push-button sparker repeatedly: While keeping that control knob pressed all the way in with one hand, use your other hand to press the push-button sparker once every second. Look through the fireplace glass toward the metal pilot assembly, which sits tucked beside the artificial logs. You should see a bright blue spark jump across the gap. Continue clicking until a small blue flame catches and begins burning steadily.
6. Continue holding the control knob down for 30 to 45 seconds: Do not let go of the knob the moment the flame appears. The flame needs time to heat up a small metal safety heat sensor sitting directly in the fire path. If you release the knob immediately, the safety mechanism assumes the flame died and will instantly cut the gas flow.
7. Slowly let go of the knob: Ease your thumb off the dial after 30 to 45 seconds. The knob should pop outward slightly on its spring, and the small blue flame should remain burning quietly on its own.
8. Turn the knob to the On position: Turn the dial counter-clockwise from Pilot to the On position. The fireplace is now armed. You can flip your wall switch, turn up your wall thermostat, or use your handheld remote to ignite the main log burners.

Hold the knob long enough to satisfy the safety heat sensor

The single most common complaint homeowners experience is watching the pilot flame light up beautifully, only to vanish into thin air the second they take their thumb off the dial. When this happens, it rarely means your fireplace is broken. In almost every case, it simply means the safety heat sensor did not get hot enough to do its job.

Inside the pilot flame sits a slender metal probe known as a thermocouple, which is a safety heat sensor that keeps the gas valve open. This metal rod contains two dissimilar metals bonded together inside a sealed copper tube. When the flame envelops the tip of this sensor, heat produces a tiny electrical current measured in millivolts. That small current travels down the copper lead into an electromagnet inside the control valve. As long as the magnet feels that electrical current, it holds the gas valve wide open.

If you let go of the knob after only 5 or 10 seconds, the sensor tip is still lukewarm. Without enough heat, it cannot produce the electrical current needed to hold that internal magnet in place. The valve spring snaps shut immediately, cutting off the gas to protect your home from unburned fumes. Holding the knob down with steady, firm pressure for at least 30 to 45 seconds gives the metal probe enough time to reach its operating temperature.

If the flame still dies after holding the knob for a full minute, examine the metal tip of the sensor through the glass. Over several seasons of burning, soot, dust, and carbon buildup collect on the metal like a tiny blanket. This layer of grime insulates the probe and prevents the heat from penetrating into the sensor. If your unit is completely cool and turned off, reaching in with an old toothbrush or a piece of fine emery cloth to gently buff soot off the tip of the metal probe will often bring a stubborn pilot right back to life.

Inspect the battery box if your fireplace uses an electronic ignition switch

Not every gas fireplace uses a standing pilot that stays lit continuously. Many modern units manufactured over the past decade feature an electronic intermittent pilot ignition system. Instead of burning a flame around the clock, these smart systems light the pilot only when you flip the wall switch, using a high-voltage spark to ignite the pilot and the main burners in one smooth motion.

If your fireplace does not have a mechanical control knob that you can push down with your thumb, you are dealing with an electronic ignition system. When these units refuse to start, the fix usually involves simple household batteries rather than gas line bleeding.

Open your lower access panel and look for a black plastic battery box connected to a thin wiring harness. Most electronic fireplaces include a battery backup pack holding four AA batteries or one 9-volt battery. These batteries power the electronic spark module whenever the power goes out, but in many designs, they also supply the primary spark power for everyday use. If these batteries sit inside the hot metal firebox cavity for two or three years, they degrade, leak white acid, or lose the voltage required to trigger a spark.

Pop open the battery tray, check for corrosion, and snap in a fresh set of name-brand alkaline batteries. Next, look at the master slide switch located beside the battery pack. This switch typically offers three positions: On, Off, and Remote. If you want your wall switch or remote control to ignite the fireplace, this slider must be set firmly to "Remote." If someone accidentally bumped it to "Off" while vacuuming or cleaning, the fireplace will stay completely unresponsive no matter how many times you flip the wall switch.

Stop immediately and call a certified technician under these conditions

While lighting a normal pilot light is a routine homeowner maintenance task, certain signs indicate internal component failure or dangerous mechanical wear. If you encounter any of the following warning signs, step back, keep the gas shut off, and call a qualified hearth technician or your local gas utility provider:

• A persistent rotten egg smell that lingers: If the room smells of sulfur when no lighting attempts have taken place, or if the smell does not vanish five minutes after airing out the room, you have an active leak in your supply fittings.
• A control knob that feels jammed or stripped: The gas control knob should depress and rotate with smooth, spring-loaded resistance. If the dial feels seized, binds up, or requires pliers to turn, do not force it. Forcing a stuck knob can fracture the internal aluminum casting and cause an uncontrolled fuel leak.
• A lazy, floppy yellow pilot flame: A healthy pilot burns as a crisp, steady blue cone that gently envelopes the tip of the heat sensor. If your pilot flame burns bright orange or yellow, flaps around erratically, or deposits thick black soot on the logs and glass, the burner orifice is heavily clogged or oxygen-starved.
• A pilot that dies instantly after cleaning the sensor: If you held the knob down for 60 seconds and cleaned all visible soot from the probe, yet the flame still drops dead the moment you release the dial, the internal thermocouple wiring has burned through or the electromagnetic valve head has failed.
• A push-button sparker that fails to create a visible spark: If pressing the clicker produces no snapping sound and no visible blue spark across the metal gap, the ceramic insulator around the spark wire may be cracked, shorting the spark out against the firebox chassis before it can reach the gas.

Choose the right replacement parts if your pilot assembly wears out

When a pilot burner refuses to stay lit despite careful cleaning and correct technique, the assembly has likely reached the end of its service life. Over years of intense heating and cooling cycles, the metal probes and small gas nozzles warp, burn through, or corrode. Replacing these components restores crisp, reliable lighting and ensures your fireplace safety valves shut down fuel flow instantly if a draft ever blows the flame out.

When shopping for replacement fireplace components, your first checkpoint is fuel compatibility. Natural gas and liquid propane operate under completely different line pressures and rely on different air-to-fuel ratios. Propane pilot orifices have much smaller openings than natural gas nozzles. Installing a natural gas pilot assembly on a propane fuel line creates dangerous flare-ups and heavy black soot, while putting a propane part on a natural gas line will starve the flame entirely. Always confirm whether the replacement kit is built specifically for your fuel type or includes interchangeable brass fuel jets.

Next, verify the physical length of the sensor leads and flexible gas supply tubes. The copper lines connecting your heat sensor and spark electrode to the control valve must be long enough to reach down through the firebox floor without pulling tight or bending into sharp kinks. Standard lead lengths generally range from 18 to 33 inches. Measure your old lines before ordering to ensure the new leads drop comfortably into the lower control compartment.

Finally, check the mounting bracket style against your fireplace model. While internal sensors follow standardized voltage ratings, the metal bracket that holds the burner hood, spark igniter, and sensor must position the flame directly over your main burner tube. Choosing a pilot assembly designed to match your brand and model series guarantees that your spark jumps to the exact right spot every time you turn the knob.

For homeowners who grow weary of dealing with gas pilot lights, line bleeding, and annual safety maintenance, modern electric upgrades offer an appealing alternative. Converting a drafty hearth by installing a quality electric fireplace insert for large room heating provides supplemental warmth with no gas lines, no open pilot flames, and zero venting hassles.

1

MENSI Copper Tube Thermocouple Replace 74L57 Sensor 26" Fits for

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• BWP Score

  BWP Score is a ranking system developed by Bestwinterproducts.com. BWP score has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  10.0
• Brand
  MENSI

Key specs2

Electrical Output

Over 20mV unload voltage

Package Quantity

2 thermocouples included

Pros & cons42

Pros

• Includes two 26-inch copper thermocouples in the package
• Delivers over 20mV unload voltage to keep compatible gas valves open
• Features a thick copper head rated for temperatures exceeding 1472 degrees Fahrenheit
• Opens the gas valve in under 15 seconds once heated by the pilot flame

Cons

• Replaces only the thermocouple sensor rather than a complete pilot hood and bracket assembly
• Requires proper tip alignment directly in the pilot flame to generate sufficient operating voltage

2

Aibabcue 4021-733 Pilot Assembly Kits Propane Gas for Heat N

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  9.4
• Brand
  Aibabcue

Key specs2

Fuel Compatibility

Propane gas (LP) only

Ignition System Support

Engineered for standing pilot systems only and does not operate with DSI valve configurations.

Pros & cons32

Pros

• Full replacement kit includes the pilot hood tube, ignitor wire, thermopile, thermocouple, and bracket
• Designed specifically for standing pilot propane gas systems across Heat N Glo and Heatilator models
• Constructed with a heat-resistant copper pilot hood and dedicated thermocouple

Cons

• Does not work with direct spark ignition valves or natural gas setups
• Copper tubing is fragile and susceptible to gas leaks if bent excessively during installation

3

Fetechmate Pilot Assembly for NG LPG Fireplace 10002264 10002265, Propane

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  8.8
• Brand
  Fetechmate

Key specs2

Dual Fuel Flexibility

Shipped for natural gas but includes an interchangeable nozzle to convert the assembly for propane use.

Lead Wire Lengths

• 26-inch thermocouple sensor
• 36-inch thermopile lead
• 18-inch copper pilot tube
• 26-inch ignitor wire

Pros & cons42

Pros

• Includes an interchangeable LPG nozzle to work on either natural gas or propane systems
• Comes with a 26-inch thermocouple, 36-inch thermopile, 18-inch pilot tube, and 26-inch ignitor wire
• Replaces part numbers 10002264, 10002265, SRV10002264, 230-1781, and 2103-010
• Backed by a 365-day return and exchange policy

Cons

• Requires manual nozzle swapping to convert the assembly for liquid propane use
• Copper pilot tube can weaken or crack if repeatedly bent during fitting

4

Lamudo Propane and Natural Gas Pilot Assembly Replaces 10002265 10002264,

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  8.8
• Brand
  Lamudo

Key specs2

Component Dimensions

• 18-inch gas pilot tube
• 26-inch thermocouple lead
• 33-inch thermopile wire
• 26-inch spark ignitor wire

Hardware Configuration

3-way pilot replacement assembly

Pros & cons32

Pros

• Comes set up for propane with an extra natural gas nozzle included for conversion
• Includes a 3-way bracket with an 18-inch pilot tube, 26-inch thermocouple, and 33-inch thermopile
• Direct replacement for part numbers 10002264 and 10002265 across multiple stove brands

Cons

• Thermopile lead is 33 inches, slightly shorter than some 36-inch alternatives
• Requires manual installation of the natural gas nozzle if operating on natural gas lines

5

Viefow Pilot Assembly 107485-01 NG8251 PP229 for Natural Gas Heaters,

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  8.4
• Brand
  Viefow

Key specs2

Safety Mechanism

Integrated oxygen depletion sensor (ODS)

Appliance Compatibility

Engineered specifically for vent-free natural gas wall heaters, gas logs, and fireplaces.

Pros & cons32

Pros

• Designed specifically as an Oxygen Depletion Sensor pilot assembly for vent-free appliances
• Direct factory replacement for DESA, Enerco, Mr Heater, FMI, and Comfort Glow heaters
• Replaces part numbers 107485-01, 104285-01, NG5251, NG8251, and PP229

Cons

• Built strictly for natural gas vent-free units and cannot be used with propane
• Listing does not specify lead wire lengths or bracket mounting measurements

6

Hicello IPI Pilot Assembly 2090-012 Natural Gas (NG) Fireplace Replacement

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  8.0
• Brand
  Hicello

Key specs2

Valve Type Requirement

Intermittent pilot ignition (IPI) only

Gas Supply Type

Natural gas (NG) only

Pros & cons32

Pros

• Designed for intermittent pilot ignition systems on natural gas fireplaces
• Replaces OEM part numbers 2090-012, 2198-012, and SRV2090-012
• Includes a 24-inch pilot tube, connecting wiring, burner bracket, and copper pilot hood

Cons

• Incompatible with standing pilot, direct spark ignition, or hot surface ignition systems
• Dedicated to natural gas models with no propane conversion nozzle supplied

7

Americangaslogs Manual Safety Pilot Control System for Gas Log Sets

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  7.8
• Brand
  Americangaslogs

Key specs2

Included Protection

Includes a dedicated heat-resistant shield to protect the control valve from high hearth temperatures.

Valve Footprint

2 x 2 x 1.5 inches

Pros & cons42

Pros

• Includes a complete manual safety pilot control valve kit along with a protective heat shield
• Compatible with both natural gas and liquid propane setups by selecting the appropriate nozzle
• Compact low-profile footprint measuring 2 by 2 by 1.5 inches fits tight fireboxes
• Helps maintain a stable pilot flame against drafts and temperature drops

Cons

• Requires verifying physical clearance inside the hearth before fitting the valve and shield
• Manual operation requires accessing the control knob directly inside the fireplace firebox

8

Natural Gas ODS Pilot Burner Assembly Work with Milivolt Gas

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  5.8
• Brand
  HOSAILAY REPLACEMENTS

Key specs2

Millivolt Compatibility

Configured to work with SIT 820-652 millivolt gas control valves on vent-free fireplaces.

Sensor Wire Lengths

• 35-inch interrupted thermocouple
• 25-inch safety thermopile

Pros & cons42

Pros

• Built for vent-free millivolt gas valves including the SIT 820-652 control system
• Includes an ignition electrode with ceramic insulator, burner hood, bracket, and sensors
• Features a 25-inch safety thermopile and an extended 35-inch interrupted thermocouple
• Matches SIT 8200 series oxyprotector specifications and Monessen part 55464

Cons

• Restricted to natural gas vent-free systems and does not support propane
• Thermocouple uses an interrupted design that must match compatible millivolt safety circuits

Last update on 2026-10-01 / Affiliate links / Images, Product Titles, and Product Highlights from Amazon Product Advertising API

FAQs

Can I light a gas fireplace pilot with a match or barbecue lighter?

Yes, you can safely use a long-nosed barbecue lighter if your push-button sparker stops working. Turn your control knob to the Pilot setting, press and hold the knob down to start the gas flow, and hold the lighter flame directly next to the pilot burner hood until it catches. Never use a standard wooden match, because your fingers will be too close to the burner when the gas ignites.

Should I leave my fireplace pilot light burning all summer long?

Leaving the pilot light on during the summer burns a tiny amount of fuel, but it produces practical benefits. The continuous warmth keeps the firebox dry, preventing internal rust and stopping spiders or insects from spinning webs inside the small gas orifice. If you prefer to save fuel and turn it completely off for the summer, be prepared to bleed air out of the line for a minute or two when relighting it in the autumn.

Why does my pilot flame go out whenever the main burner turns on?

When the main burners ignite, they draw a large volume of gas across the internal manifold. If your home supply pressure is slightly weak, or if the main gas line shutoff valve is partially closed, that sudden demand can starve the pilot light, causing it to shrink away from the safety sensor and trip the shutoff valve. A dirty pilot orifice can also cause this problem by restricting fuel flow to the sensor probe.

Does a gas fireplace still work during a household power outage?

Most traditional gas fireplaces with a standing pilot light operate entirely without household electricity. The small heat sensor sitting in the pilot flame creates its own tiny millivolt electrical current to keep the gas valve open, allowing you to heat your room even when winter storms knock down neighborhood power lines. However, electric blower fans that circulate hot air into the room will not blow without household power unless connected to a backup generator.